Porto is a city on the rise; a tangible air of purpose cloaks the granite streets, which ring with student laughter and the babble of foreign tongues. I live in southern Portugal, but every time I visit Porto, there is something new to explore. On my last visit, I stayed in three recently opened places – two chic, art-filled guest houses and a hotel with a wine list to return for. New initiatives, from their hugely successful first literary festival in July, (I heard Margaret Atwood, Julian Barnes, Salman Rushdie) to wine weeks, abound. It is the perfect place to dip into for a long city break, ticking all the boxes we travel for – good food and wine, history and heritage or just to immerse ourselves in the culture of another country and expand our horizons. Here is how to make the most of three days in Porto.

Almas chapel in PortoGetty Images

Morning

Start your day at the Bolhao Market. Order a bica (an espresso) and a pastel de nata custard tart, if you want to live like a local or if savoury is more your thing try the little pies (empanadas) filled with the game or the sashimi that the fishmongers prepare. The neo-classical building has recently been restored, but the market here has been a culinary hub of Porto since 1914, famous for its popular produce, from percebes (goose barnacle) to tripe after which the Portoenses got their nick-name of ‘tripeiros’ or tripe eaters, due to their generosity in the 15th century when they sent all the good cuts of meat with the army to conquer distant lands, leaving only the innards for themselves.

If it is near noon, you could leave the market and stop just nearby for a drink at the Belle Époque Café Majestic, which opened in 1921 and was the haunt of writers and artists. You can see the Palladium Galleries Clock across the street from a table outside. On the hour, four little figurines come out as it chimes. Two are Portuguese poets; one is Prince Henry the Navigator of The Golden Age of Discovery fame, and the other is St. John the Baptist, Patron Saint of Porto. The latter’s feast day in June is a huge affair with fireworks and boat races.

Mix the old in with the new and head to the Wine Bar for lunch at the three-story Matriarca townhouse, recently opened by the Symington family; fifth-generation premium port and wine producers. Named in honour of their original matriarch in Portugal, Anglo-Portuguese Beatriz was renowned for the dinners she hosted. The Wine Bar on the ground floor (do look at the tiles underfoot) has zingy, light dishes like seabass carpaccio with lemon, pistachios and avocado alongside traditional beef croquettes.

Belle Époque Café Majestic

Afternoon

Suitably refreshed, find your way along Porto’s pretty streets to the Capela das Almas or Chapel of Souls. It is a church often seen in photographs of the city due to its exquisite blue and white tiled exteriors, which portray the lives of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine of Alexandria. Lovers of this art form should not miss the São Bento railway station, where more than 20,000 painted ceramic tiles created at the beginning of the 20^th century, can be admired.

Spend the afternoon in the centre of town dipping into the shops. There is a famous bookshop, Lello, known for its Hogwarts-style staircase, a definite source of inspiration for one-time resident JK Rowling and a treasure trove of books. But don’t miss Vista Allegre, great for glass, porcelain and the pottery of Bordallo Pinheiro, whose cabbage leaf plates you may well know. For a more contemporary take, try Costa Nova; both muted and minimalist and very desirable. A Vida Portuguesa is a hugely successful store bringing back memories of vintage-style toothpaste and little ceramic swallows that promise to bring you back here. Claus Porto, Portugal’s most iconic soap and scent brand, has its flagship store in pedestrianised Rua das Flores. Try their scent, Alto Mar, inspired by the Atlantic and stock up on soaps in their trademark, vibrant, Art Nouveau wrapping paper.

Lello Bookshop in Porto

Evening

Just across from there is Cozinha das Flores, where London-based Nuno Mendes delivers his contemporary twist on northern Portuguese food. Try his sensational pastel de nata, which here, rather than a custard tart, is filled with turnip and topped with caviar. But settle in for more than that, for me this is Portuguese food at its best, and the room with its open fire and kitchen is one made for lingering.

Night

Adjoining it is Porto’s popular Bar, its sibling Flor. It spills onto the street, making it a great people-watching place for a nightcap in this busy corner of town. Cocktails to try are Clichéd, where mixologist Tatiana, who created it, imported elements of cod and coriander, stereotypical Portuguese flavours. Try Relish, too, for its umami complexity.

Bolhao Central Market

Morning

‘In Braga, they pray; in Coimbra, they study; in Porto, they work; and in Lisbon, they play,’ goes the old Portuguese saying. Nevertheless, there are churches in Porto and many well worth visiting. The most impressive is São Francisco, classified as a National Monument in 1910 and no longer used for worship. Its richly gilded interiors are the best example of Baroque decoration. Start there, as it is so central, and then head up to the Clérigos Church and Tower. Built by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni in the 18th century, its 75-metre-tall bell tower is a city landmark. Views over Porto and the Douro River are magnificent from the top. Lastly, explore Porto’s cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century. It has been much altered over the years, but not the 13th-century rose window and the blue and white lining the cloisters.

Smoked eel, almonds, dashi at Pedro Lemos

After all this sightseeing, you deserve to treat yourself to a nice lunch. One of my favourite fine-dining restaurants is Pedro Lemos. Named after the chef himself, Pedro delivers authentic Portuguese flavours with passion. It is a pleasure to eat there, with a satisfying absence of the theatre that sometimes accompanies meals in Michelin-starred restaurants. Here, you'll just find really good food, really well done.

View of old Porto

Afternoon

The Serralves Museum is an excellent place to stop. It is designed by local boy and Pritzker-prize winner, architect Siza Vieira. You'll find it in the lovely Serralves park, where Casa de Serralves, one of the country’s best examples of Art Deco, is also located. There is plenty to do in the park, from the treetop walk, to the many sculptures exhibited there, as well as in the Museum itself. And there is also one of the country’s best museum shops here, which has ceramics by one of my favourite artists, Anna Westerlund.

Those looking to buy art should try the many galleries and shops in Miguel Bombarda Steet. The art gallery Galeria Presenca and Ó! Galeria are particularly recommended for its prints and illustrations.

Ribeira, the historic centre of Porto

Evening

I always recommend dinner at Casa de Cha da Boa Nova to those visiting Porto. Of course, the food is amazing and worthy of its two Michelin stars, but it is the whole setting that makes it. Chef Rui Paula is from this part of Portugal, and Siza Vieira, the architect who designed this little gem which sits on the cliff top as the sea rages beneath it, is also from nearby. Go before the sun sets so you can soak up the view, and that way you have plenty of time to devote ample time to feasting on bounty from the sea right in front of you.

Casa de Chá da Boa Nova

Night

If you have eaten on the early side, you will have time to drop into The Royal Cocktail Club for a nightcap. It is a sophisticated venue where mixologists impress across the marble-topped bar. Downstairs is a cocktail lounge where you can settle in until the early hours.

Church in the old town of Porto

Morning

Finally, it is time to cross the river and see what all the fuss is about. Dawdle first in the medieval district of Ribeira, where a jumble of colourful houses runs right up the riverside. It has become a centre for tourists with endless stalls, but it still maintains its character. You can either cross the river on the Ponte D. Luis 1 bridge (where you usually find young boys waiting to jump into the water for you from a great height, for a few euros), which has one of the biggest forged iron arches in the world or hop aboard the little boat that goes back and forth between Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto, which you will see advertised if you walk along the riverside. In Vila Nova de Gaia, the famous ‘nectar of the Gods’ is King, for this is where all the port lodges are. Take your pick from a wide choice (and it might be worth booking online beforehand), but Taylor’s is a good one for its fascinating historical museum (this port house was founded in 1692), its audio guide and its good range of tastings available afterwards.

Afternoon

Just above you stands the relatively new World of Wine. It encompasses a variety of museums and exhibitions, from ancient drinking vessels to an interactive chocolate museum where children can mould their own chocolate coins. Its main aim is to demystify the world of wine and encourage everyone to enjoy it, however scant their knowledge. There is extensive history about the wine regions, grape characteristics, and tastings. The latest addition to the complex is The Atkinson Museum, currently housing a fascinating optical and kinetic art exhibition called The Dynamic Eye, on loan from London’s Tate Collection.

Porto's Douro River as viewed from the Ponte Dom Luis

Evening

Delve into the back streets of Porto and visit a neighbourhood restaurant the locals adore. Apego Restaurante is a place to go to unwind, with an easy atmosphere and reliably delicious food. Its chef, Aurora Guy, draws on her Franco-Portuguese roots to serve plant-based dishes like celery root tarte tatin alongside veal short rib with Jerusalem artichokes, mustard seed and baked rice. There are two tasting menu options – the five-course one, at €70, is well worth trying. I love the interiors too, with its exposed stone and wooden floors and soft lighting.

Night

Finish the night at Base Porto, a cool, vibrant, open-air bar with cocktails and more right in the city's centre.