This deeply historical Nigel Cabourn collaboration resurrects iconic railway, ranch and rodeo workwear with handcrafted quality.
This deeply historical Nigel Cabourn collaboration resurrects iconic railway, ranch and rodeo workwear with handcrafted quality.
Published October 8, 2026
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The United States and Japan are deeply interconnected in the world of rugged denim. The beloved material was popularized, after all, in the USA, while Japan has spent decades perfecting it.
So it makes perfect sense that Lee and Nigel Cabourn’s Ox’ed Silver Crafted in Japan collection would combine elements of both countries’ historical craftsmanship to create one stunning, unified whole.
The collection draws from archival rodeo, ranch and railway worker apparel from centuries past.LeeAmerican heritageThe collection comes in two parts: design and craft. The former is deeply connected and intertwined with American history, dating back more than a century.
This workwear collection features ten distinct products, most of which draw directly on iconic pieces from Lee’s archives. More specifically, they include silhouettes taken from the railway, ranch and rodeo industries — all inextricably tied to Americana.
The ten-item collection includes multiple styles of jeans, as well as a jacket, work shirt, overalls, suspenders and even bandanas.LeeThree of the pieces are classic blue jeans: the Ranch Worker 101 Jean, Railway Man 101 Jean, and Rodeo Clown 101Z Jean. Other items, also made from the same stunning denim, include the Railway Man Loco Jacket, Ranch Worker 101J Jacket and Railway Man Overall.
But there are also denim-adjacent and industry-adjacent offerings, like a chambray work shirt and a classic bandana. Each piece, big or small, is stunningly rendered and, even more importantly, carefully crafted to honor and elevate that which inspired them.
The collection hinges on Brurry Denim, a proprietary Japanese material made exclusively for Nigel Cabourn.LeeThe collection hinges on Nigel Cabourn’s signature Brurry Denim, a proprietary selvage material specially woven in Japan on modified vintage shuttle looms. The process uses intentionally irregular yarns and varied dyeing techniques to pay homage to the imperfections of century-old fabrics.
This denim is crafted on vintage looms using irregular fibers to honor the past’s imperfections.LeeAnd while the craft behind the material ensures no two pieces are alike, they will also age and wear differently depending on the individual who wears them, further enhancing their uniqueness. Yet that’s not where the Japanese connection stops.
In addition to the material being sourced specifically from Japan, the individual pieces are entirely constructed there as well. While the patterns boast American heritage, the craft behind their construction, down to the individual fibers, is deeply Japanese, offering the best of both worlds.
Every piece is designed to age and acquire a patina unique to the individual wearer.LeeLee and Nigel Cabourn’s Ox’ed Silver Crafted in Japan collection is now available on Lee’s official site, with prices ranging from $200 to $790.
About the Author: Sean Tirman is an associate editor at Gear Patrol who specializes in EDC, cannabis and outdoor gear.
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