Regular trims are essential to any healthy hair routine, but if you want to speed up the growth process, you’ve probably wondered: does hair grow faster when you cut it? The answer isn’t as straightforward as you might think. Your unique hair type, style, and overall hair goals all play into your growth rate – and how much of an impact getting your hair cut might have.

Below, experts weigh in on whether trims can actually make your hair grow faster – plus, how often you should be cutting your hair for best results.

You may have been told that hair that's cut regularly grows faster, but dermatologist, hair expert and Rhute Hair founder, Dr Aamna Adel, tells us straight. This is one of the most common hair myths I come across, and unfortunately it isn't true," she confirms. “Cutting the hair does not affect the follicle, which is where growth actually happens, beneath the scalp. Your scissors are working on the very end of the hair, while the growth is taking place at the root, so the two simply aren't connected,” she adds. “Hair grows at an average of roughly a centimetre a month, regardless of how often you trim it. Where the myth comes from is understandable though: regular trims remove split ends and breakage, so the hair stays in better condition and looks healthier and thicker, which can give the impression it's growing faster,” says Dr Adel. "Sometimes hair growth is simply a matter of taking better care of your hair – which, of course, includes those dreaded regular trims,” agrees Michele Green, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist.

While staying on schedule with trims won’t make your hair sprout at record speed, it will prevent damage that slows down healthy growth. It’ll also help you maintain density in your ends, which can make your hair appear fuller and longer overall. “Regular haircuts are important for removing split ends and preventing them from travelling up the hair shaft, which can lead to further damage and breakage,” says Min Kim, celebrity colourist and L’Oréal Professionnel global ambassador. “If you don’t cut your hair regularly, split ends can worsen, resulting in dull-looking hair that’s prone to breakage.”

This rule applies whether you want to grow your hair longer or chop it into a bob. According to Kim, trimming also helps to maintain the hair’s shape and manageability.

While haircuts won't actually make hair grow faster, regular salon visits mean more opportunities for a hair pro to weigh in on your hair concerns, says Shelly Aguirre, a hairstylist at Maxine Salon. “When getting haircuts, your stylist can look at your overall hair and scalp health from an angle that you’re not able to see,” she points out. “You may have buildup on your hair or scalp that you’re not even aware of.”

There's no one-size fits all answer to this, since the frequency with which you cut your hair should be tailored to your hair type, texture and concerns. “It depends on the condition of your hair rather than growth itself,” says Dr Adel. “For most people, a trim every eight to twelve weeks is reasonable, but there's no fixed rule. If you have damaged, colour-treated or chemically processed hair that's prone to splitting, more regular trims help stop breakage travelling up the hair shaft, which can otherwise leave the lengths looking thinner," she says.

Certain hair types – especially curls, which are naturally drier than straight hair – are more prone to split ends, and can benefit from more frequent trims. If that sounds like you, consult your stylist on your haircut spacing and remember to use heat protectant, treatment masks and hair oils to keep your ends sealed between salon visits.

In general, "if your hair is in good condition, you can comfortably go longer between cuts. The goal is to keep the ends healthy, so you're not constantly losing length to breakage,” Dr Adel explains. But going longer between cuts, doesn't mean ditching them altogether to hold onto length. “When a client tells me they want to grow their hair so they just won’t get it cut for six to eight months, that is actually counterproductive,” Aguirre says. “To grow hair out, I recommend haircuts every three months. This allows that hair to grow without sacrificing the shape and keeps those split ends under control.”

Obviously some styles, like short layers, crops or blunt bobs require more regular maintenance to keep the shape feeling fresh. “For maintaining a specific style, it’s generally recommended to schedule a haircut with your stylist every six to eight weeks to keep the shape and length intact,” says Kim. That said, it’s also up to your personal preference. “I do have clients that like their hair cut every four weeks to keep it looking sharp, so ultimately it depends on what your hair goals are,” says Aguirre.

A fringe typically needs more frequent trims than the rest of hair, says Kim, who recommends trimming them every three to four weeks. “This prevents them from getting too long, which makes it difficult to maintain the integrity of the style,” she says. A fringe also tends to demand more heat styling, so regular trims are especially important to minimise damage.

No-one likes to watch their split ends start to peel, so it's worth keeping on top of nipping them in the bud. “If your hair is damaged or chemically treated, such as with colouring, blonding or straightening treatments, it’s beneficial to trim more frequently,” Kim says, advising every six to eight weeks for a touch-up. Aguirre agrees, noting that a regular trim can help improve the overall health of your hair and keep damage, breakage, and split ends at bay.

Prevention is just as important as cure when caring for your hair's health. “A lot of it comes down to reducing everyday wear and tear,” advises Dr Adel.

Prevention

“Minimise excessive heat styling and always use a heat protectant when you do,” says Dr Adel. “There are a variety of heat protectors that specifically target each situation, and heat protection actually starts in the shower,” agrees Aguirre. “Also look for hot tools that reduce damage," she says. GHD's Sculpt Interactive Hair Straightener is the brand's first AI-powered styler, taking 2,900 measurements per second to read your hair and adjust the heat as you style.

“Be gentle when detangling by starting at the ends and working upwards; and avoid consistently tight hairstyles that place tension on the hair. It's also worth avoiding frequent or consecutive bleaching, as that's one of the most damaging things you can do to the hair fibre,” she adds. Beyond that? “Protect hair from environmental damage, such as sun exposure and chlorine,” says Kim. This can mean wearing a hat when it's sunny out, or tying hair up out the way when you're in the pool.

Care and cure

Since your hair grows from the root, not the tip, paying attention to nourishing and stimulating the scalp with scalp serums, hair serums, massages and hair growth vitamins can help. Between hair cuts, Kim suggests following a good haircare routine, such as regular shampooing and conditioning with products suitable for your hair type. “Nourish hair with regular deep-conditioning treatments or masks,” she says, pointing to L’Oréal Professionnel Absolut Repair Molecular Collection as her choice for combatting hair damage between appointments.

“Supporting the hair with a bond repair treatment used regularly, along with hydrating and repairing shampoos and conditioners, helps keep it strong and resilient,” agrees Dr Adel. “Looking after your scalp matters just as much, since that's the environment your hair grows from. A scalp serum, like the rhute Density + Repair Scalp Serum can be used daily and has been engineered to activate and optimise the scalp environment for fuller looking hair. And as always, a balanced diet with adequate protein and no untreated nutritional deficiencies underpins the whole thing,” she adds.

Finally, Kim advises consulting with your hairstylist for personalised advice on hair care and maintenance, including the frequency of trims and the best practices for keeping your hair healthy and looking its best.

A version of this article originally appeared on Glamour (US).