This cold noodle dish is a staple in Japan, where it’s used as a canvas to highlight seasonal vegetables. (Hiyashi means “chilled” in Japanese.) Here, a base of cold noodles is seasoned with a soy-based broth; in Japan, different restaurants may make their broth with vegetables or fish or dashi.

This version highlights cucumbers, ham, corn and tomato, but feel free to change the toppings based on what’s available. Swap the ham for tuna, tofu or strips of surimi (imitation crab) — or leave the meat out.

Rinsing the cooked noodles until cold running water helps clear out the starch and also firm them up so that they have a bouncier texture.

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Time: 20 minutes

Servings: 4

• 6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce or shoyu
• 6 tablespoons rice vinegar or distilled white vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• ¾ cup cold water
• 2 large eggs
• Salt
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, divided
• 2 (5-ounce) packages of dried Japanese curly noodles or 4 packages of ramen noodles, seasoning saved for another use
• 3 Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced
• 1 to 2 tomatoes on the vine or beefsteak tomatoes, quartered and thinly sliced
• Kernels from 2 ears of corn (about 1½ cups)
• 4 slices ham (about 4 ounces), thinly sliced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
• Shichimi or crushed red pepper, optional

1. Whisk together soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil and cold water in a medium bowl. Set aside.
2. Whisk the eggs and a pinch of salt in a small bowl until the eggs are thoroughly combined. Heat a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add about ⅓ of the vegetable oil, and swirl to coat the pan. Add about ⅓ of the beaten egg (about 2 to 3 tablespoons), and tilt to spread into a thin layer, like a very thin omelet. Cook until the egg is set (you do not have to flip it), 30 to 45 seconds, then transfer the cooked egg onto a plate. Repeat two more times with the remaining vegetable oil and beaten egg. Let the thin egg crepes cool completely, then roll them up and thinly slice into strips.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil, and cook the noodles according to package instructions. Drain the noodles completely. Rinse under cold water, swishing the noodles around in the water with your hands to help cool completely. Drain the noodles, squeezing them lightly with your hands, to wring out excess water. Divide the cooled noodles among 4 bowls.
4. Divide the cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, ham and egg strips among the four bowls of noodles. Top each with sliced scallions, and then pour soy and vinegar mixture into each bowl. Serve with shichimi or crushed red peppers if desired.